Wagyu Short Rib braised Ossobuco alla Pazzino

Wagyu Short Rib braised Ossobuco alla Pazzino

As far as final meals go, this is a contender, not only because of its intense flavor, but its intense richness. Ossobuco, or òss bus if you’re an OG Lombardese, is the center cut of the veal shank and means “Bone hole”. Sounds better in Italian, we agree, but anyway you say it this dish is a masterpiece, prized around the world. 

Traditionally the shank is cut thick about 2 inches or more, browned then stewed, and served over risotto or sometimes polenta if you’re that kind of person. My go-to classic recipe I pulled from my Italy in Bocca Milano edition, and while it’s delicious, this non-tradition version brings this hallmark dish into a new milenia of taste. Here is what you will need for two people: 

For the Ossobuco:

4 carrots

4 celery ribs

4 cloves of garlic

1 yellow onion

2 Tablespoons tomato paste

4 anchovy filets

4 tablespoons EVOO

1 quart of chicken stock

2 thick cut Veal Shanks (3 inch cuts)

1 Wagyu Short Rib

Sprig of Rosemary, Sage, Thyme 

1 Cup of flower

Splash of white wine

For the Risotto:

1 1/2 cups Arborio rice

1 finely chopped shallot

2 tablespoons olive oil

¼ stick of unsalted cultured butter

5 cups simmering chicken stock

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 shot of good bourbon
2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons of azafron (or pinch of saffron if you drive a G wagon)
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

First prep everything to make it easy. Chop up your carrots, celery, garlic and onion roughly, about half inch chunks. I like it rustic and this will stew so no need to go nuts. 

For the best shanks, I get mine from Allen Brothers delivered right to my door. They are gorgeous, hand cut Dutch milk-fed sustainably delicious cuts, and beyond delicious. If you can, leave them uncovered in the fridge overnight on a baking rack and pan. This dries them out a bit so they get a nice crust. Definitely take them out about an hour or two before you cook them so they come to temperature. With your shanks dry and at temp, dredge them in some flour so all sides are well coated.

If you have a dutch oven or large cast iron pot, that’s my preferred way to cook this, otherwise any pot that will fit both shanks and quasi submerge them in stock will do. 

Put the pot on the stove on medium heat. Put in your extra virgin olive oil. I like to use real grassy olive oil for this to cut through the richness of the dish. 

When shimmering, lay down your one wagyu short rib (also from Allen Brothers, chef kiss). No, you don’t need to do this step. Yes, you will regret it if you don't. That one rib is going to ooze gold which your dish is going to swim in. Don’t you want your mouth to swim in gold? Do the short rib.

When it’s brown on both sides, take it out, sprinkle it with flaky salt and eat it. Go ahead, you deserve it, and no one is looking. Now add in your shanks and let them brown (don’t touch it, I swear if you move that shank I will find you) until each side has been kissed golden by the pan. 

When your shanks are the color of an Italian on vacation in Tahiti, take them out and let them rest. Deglaze the pot with some white wine (honestly don’t care what kind), then throw in your 4 anchovy filets into the pot. Don’t worry you will not taste anchovy, but you will be bombarded with an explosion of umami in the form of natural MSG which will make everyone at the table look at everyone else thinking “I could take them. Like in a fight. And then eat the rest of their dish. I could do it.” It will be uncomfortable, but delicious. 

Next, squeeze some tomato paste into the pot and let that fry up a bit. When it’s all combined, throw in your sofrito (the chopped carrots, celery, garlic and onion) and let them develop some flavor in the pan for about 10-15 minutes. When the sofrito (see, now you have a new word) has gotten some nice color, place the shanks back in and cover half way with chicken stock. Take your sprigs of herbs and make a bouquet garni, which is a fancy way to say tie them together with butcher string, and throw them in the liquid. 

Take that pot and place it into an oven at 275 for a minimum of 2 hours, maximum of 6. The longer and slower you cook it the better. Check on it every hour to see if it needs more stock or salt. It should reduce to a thick gravy when you are ready to take it out, so that’s on you. 

TIP: If, by some chance, your lovely wife is tired of waiting for this stupid dish you been destroying the kitchen with all afternoon, and your gravy is too thin, then you can take out the shanks and in a separate pan put a little butter, olive oil and tablespoon of flour to make a roux. Fry that up and then put the liquid from the shank pot a little by little in the pan and cook to reduce. This will make it unctuous, rich and thick. Yes I said unctuous.

About 45 minutes before your meat is done, you can start your risotto.

First, get the chicken stock to a light simmer in a small pot.

Next, in a nice big cast iron pan, if you got it, melt your butter and olive oil over medium heat and throw in your finely chopped shallots. I like cultured butter because I like funk and you will too. 

When those shallots are golden goddesses, take a shot of good bourbon, and then take another one and deglaze that pan.  love Angel’s Envy because it’s finished in port casks and makes me feel special. If you’re trying to impress someone, light it on fire by gingerly tilting it toward the flame, or don’t if you really want to impress a chef. The alcohol will dissipate quickly and you won't burn your house down. 

Time to throw in your arborio rice. Aborio is short grain Italian rice. It’s basically the sushi rice of Italy. You want it because it has high starch and lots of surface area, which is why you do not rinse it either. That’s whattamakesa-da-creamy, you dig?

Now, in a small glass put some azafran. Yes you can use saffron threads, or, if you live in a culturally insipid place like Los Angeles, you can use azafran like I do, which is Safflower, and a nice substitute for the ridiculously priced saffron. Thank the Lord for my brothers and sisters to the south. Anywho, add a little of that hot stock to let it bloom, then put it in the pan with the rice. 

At this point you want to continually stir the rice until it goes semi-translucent. It’s soaking up all that delicious oil and prepping the starch for cremosity. 

Now, one ladle at a time (and I swear if you think you can put two I will find you and take your pan away) add in the simmering stock and start moving that rice around. Yes, you could add all the stock if you wanted to and yes, the rice would cook, but no, it will not be creamy as all hell and no it will not get you a second date or permission to go on that camping trip with the boys. You’ve been warned. 

When your risotto has sucked up all that delicious stock, add another ladle, and repeat, until it is cooked and creamy. How do you know it is cooked? Eat some. #science - it should be soft but with bite, and not at all crunchy at any time. At this point turn the heat off and slowly add in your parmigiano while constantly stirring so that it incorporates smoothly. Finally crack some good, fresh pepper on her, and add any salt if you feel the need. Ding, risotto is ready!

To plate this epic meal you can go two ways. One is conventional; put a little rice on the plate, place a shank, and ladle some gravy over it. Otherwise, you can take that big pan of risotto, add in the two shanks, sauce it with the gravy, and plop it on the table to share it like lovers. Your call. Either way you’ll be asleep before dessert.